As I recount my latest experience at Alo, I grapple with the
final mark: would I still consider them a 9 or a “top pick”? There were dishes
that were incredible, but then some that missed the mark. The tasting menu
($225 per person) was off to a shaky start when the canapés arrived.
We’re instructed to eat the four bites in a particular
order. The first, an oyster with compressed cantaloupe and Iberico ham oil had
a fishy essence without an acidic element (like the traditional mignonette or
lemon) to help cut through the strong taste. It also seemed off that it wasn’t
ice cold for something that should be served uber fresh. The first bite was a
bust.
Slowly, the redemption started with the beautifully
presented uni tart, which was made even creamier with a thick crème
fraiche on the bottom. While this wasn’t mind-blowing, it was at least not repulsive.
After the fishy oyster I had doubts about the mackerel tart,
but this was unfounded as the meaty fish was very clean tasting and well
balanced with bright pops of the daintiest tomatoes and fruit. Indeed, there
was an ocean-like essence from the caviar, but it wasn’t overpowering.
The canapés ended with a foie gras and strawberry jelly tart
that created a sweet and savoury element. This was surprisingly good and wonderfully
rich.
It’s unclear if Alo is pandering to Michelin inspectors as
the procession of Japanese dishes just seem out of place at a French
restaurant. Sure, I can understand if they want to throw in one dish that’s has
a Japanese influence, but to feature a handful was just too much.
Moreover, some dishes just can’t live up to what you’d be
served during an omakase meal. Chef Patrick Kriss should drop the madai course,
a sea bream paired with chili oil, caviar, and kumquat. Like the oyster, it was
fishy and warm. Give me this fish cool with freshly grated wasabi and soy sauce
any day.
The kinmedai was better, the red snapper was at least
cold and refreshing with the oh so finely julienned radish in the centre. The
various oils complimented the fish nicely and this was an improvement over the
other sashimi course. If Alo must have a sashimi course (why would it),
one is enough.
Having a soft spot for chawanmushi I wouldn’t be
opposed to this remaining on the menu. The actual steamed egg was hot and
silky, but then enhanced with lovely French and Western elements: smooth foie
gras tofu cubes, fragrant truffle paste, crunchy radish, sweet corn, and crispy
chicken skin. All this amongst a pool of reduced capon broth. What an
incredible dish!
At this point, the meal started having an upward trajectory.
The chanterelle mushrooms were so meaty and cooked to the point of perfection –
no longer raw and spongy but not too wilted either. Paired with spinach, artichoke,
and a luscious whipped egg sauce, it was so delicious that I wanted to lick the
bowl.
The seared scallop and roasted mussel continued the ascent
with its superb execution. The scallop was seared beautifully and super sweet
and the mussel so tender ending with a lovely clean finish that it’s unlike any
mussel I’ve ever had. Paired with a savoury foam and parsley sauce, these were
the perfect seasoning not overshadowing the seafood’s natural flavours.
At the beginning, we were asked if we’d like to substitute
the rice dish for foie gras (supplemental $40). Why anyone would want to miss
out on the Koshihikari rice with Dungeness crab is beyond me. Koshihikari
is a short grain rice that’s cultivated to be used in many dishes,
including risotto so that it has that creaminess but also a more distinct grain
that Arborio. The risotto was cheesy and savoury with bits of snap pea added to
give it a crunchy pop of freshness that was so good that I longed for more. To elevate
the dish, thin slices of wagyu beef topped the dish, so that as it melts the fat
seeps into the rice. Do not replace this baby.
A boneless lamb chop follows seared to perfection and having
a lovely charbroil taste. As you have a cube of the meat with the garnishes,
each bite tastes so different – whether it’s the peel tomato, fried shallots, or
patty pan squash. Somewhere down the line you sample the the olive stuffed with
sausage, which is good but a bit heavy, so I’d recommend saving it for the last
bite.
Alas, the meal bell curves with the last savoury dish being
mediocre. The striploin was fine, slightly over cooked, but at least having a
nice grilled essence. Yet, it’s the miso sauce that really threw me off and added
a weird funk to the steak. Perhaps if we upgraded the dry aged angus to the
Japanese A5 wagyu (supplemental $90) it would pair better, but as it stood the
sauce was a bust. Moreover, the deep-fried eggplant tempura garnish was too
seedy and bitter.
The only saving grace was the pain au lait that gets
paired with the striploin. It’s just as fluffy and fragrant as I remembered. I
absolutely love Alo’s bread, so much so that they even gave us an order to go,
what a sweet and unexpected gesture.
Normally, sorbet palette cleansers can be really tart and pungent.
Alo tones it down with their take on strawberries and cream where the layer of
cream at the bottom helps balance out the frozen Italian wine with strawberries
and the champagne foam.
Dessert progresses with a tasty meringue with peach mousse
and vanilla cake. Garnished with a verbena lemon sauce the dessert is a nice
balance of sweet and sour. After so many dishes, I’m glad it’s a lighter finish
that still has a sweetness that satisfies.
It wouldn’t be a French meal without a box of petit fours, presented
in a lovely tree box. I love that they made a mini lemon meringue to pay homage
to Aloette downstairs but it’s not nearly as good as the sister restaurant as
meringue is so small that the bite was fairly sour. The passion fruit caramel
was too sticky and the chocolate caramel too sweet. It was the simple
strawberry gelee that was just right, enhanced by the fruit’s natural flavours
and a great consistency. I felt like Goldilocks going through the petit fours
trying to find the perfect bite.
Save room for their canale as it’s a lovely combination
of crispy caramelized shell and fluffy moist interior. Consequently, it also paired
perfectly with a cappuccino ($6).
The roller coaster food aside, Alo does excel at service. There’s
a lovely chill we-don’t-take-ourselves-too-seriously vibe with the 90s rap
playing and the entire staff sporting New Balance kicks. Everyone we encountered
was so friendly, professional, and knowledgeable that we knew we were in good
hands.
Address: 163 Spadina Avenue, 3rd floor
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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